Many of these images were also shot in vertical orientation and with the camera tilted down at about a 45 degree angle. For many of the images in this article the front lens element was about 6 inches away from the foreground subject. I opt to use focus bracketing/stacking when the foreground lacks larger points of interest and I want to accentuate the details of smaller foreground subjects like ice crystals, sea shells, small rocks, leaves, flowers, etc. Here is a breakdown of how I go about using this feature. This guide does not appear when just bracketing is enabled since there is no in-camera stacking going on.Īlthough the scene may be substantially different from one location to another, the method by which I use focus bracketing/stacking remains fairly consistent. Use this border to aid in composing your shot. This is necessary because as the camera adjusts to different focus points the field of view also changes slightly. Everything outside this border will be trimmed off your final stacked image. You will also see a thin border appear when stacking is enabled. Once engaged, you will see BKT appear on the top of the LCD panel. Achieving good results is considerably easier when shooting landscape images when compared with shooting macro since you typically have greater depth of field with a landscape lens. This allows you to stack them later if you'd like, using third-party software like Photoshop or Helicon Focus. The individual images will be recorded as RAW images (assuming you are shooting in RAW). The focus stacking feature will shoot your selected number of photos at the focus differential you set and then merge them into one jpeg file at full resolution.
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